is there a way to tell if the orange peel is in the clear coat or the paint ?It`s almost always in the clear unless the paint job is pretty messed up. Perhaps someone else has, or you can look them up on Youtube, etc. Or, perhaps you can look at the CarPro Denim, I believe, pads that are supposed to be able to remove orange peel, etc. The process I outlined above is the one I and all Painters use at all the body shops in the world, to get vehicles they worked on ready to paint, after they applied the primer, etc., over the repair.Īnd it goes without saying, that you need great lighting over the entire panel, while you are doing this, and since this is a wet process, you need to mind the electrical cords - especially the connection points are nowhere near the water. The idea is to take off as LITTLE as possible, because as we all know, once you take it off, you cannot put it back on without a lot of expense of a repaint, etc. Then, if you have this total thickness measurement, and you sand, and measure in MICRONS, you can see that for example you went from total paint thickness of say - 120 microns to 115 microns, etc. While only the most expensive DeFelsko meter can be pretty accurate at measuring the different layers, the other meters can at least give you the - total paint thickness - measurement ( this is counting the primer, sealer, anything else that is put down AND the little amount of paint and clearcoat that is applied on top). If you remove it all and make the panel absolutely flat and compound it perfectly, then what happens if the next panel does not look the same ? Get what I mean ?Īnd as has been already mentioned above, if you do not have a total paint thickness meter that is reasonably accurate and can be calibrated before you start the work, you are taking a chance. The only other thing I can think of is - once you start removing orange peel at whatever - LEVEL - you remove it, you have to keep it at that level or it will not match. They sell little rolls of paper at places like Home Depot along with a hand taper that holds a roll of paper and the tape, so all you have to do is pull out the paper and the tape is on the edge of one side of it. If you decide to use the Guide Coat Method, you will need to paper and tape off the areas around the sanding, so you don`t get the Guide Coat on them. Try to use the Sanding Block as much as possible, so the panel is sanded flat. What we had in the paint shop was a water hose that had the metal connector cut off so there would be no chance of scratching any of the panel with a metal connector. You need to have water running over the sanding area the entire time you are doing this, to keep rinsing off the removed paint, and keeping the sandpaper clean. This Guide Coat will allow you to visually see the area you sanded, and any low spots along the way that need to be addressed, if you want to sand flat. I would suggest you also get a can of either gray or flat black lacquer paint to spray a - Light Guide Coat over the area you sand first. The block is to insure you sand - Flat - across the panel. If you really want to go through with this, you need to get a 3M Black Rubber Sanding Block, and a couple of smaller thick, rubber blocks and 3M WET or DRY paper. Wonder how 4u2nvinmtl is doing these days.I still worry that he took off too much for long-term UV resistance, but he made an informed decision (since we discussed this stuff before he did it) and was prepared to live with the consequences. Unless you have those extra mils to work with. And to subsequently limit UV exposure for the life of the vehicle. I`d sure plan to *not* use anything coarser than 1500 and to do the final sanding with 3k or finer. It`s just that few people who are (what I`d insider) qualified to do wet sanding ever ask questions about it and an awful lot of people who do ask about/try it end up asking how to fix the resulting damage (and the answer is "with a paint gun"). OTOH, if you have extra mils (not microns) of clear to work with, and a good ETG, and you`re dialed-in on major correction, then well."never mind!" and I apologize for making assumptions. (I believe that few can level, or even significantly reduce, orange peel without thinning the clear no, I do not believe that people "only take it off the high spots.") With the minimal amount of clear that can be removed over the life of the vehicle, I`d be hard-pressed to justify removing any to fix oe orange peel, and if we`re talking orange peel from a repaint there are Qs I`d put to the painter first. Fishing- I might as well chime in with my usual, if generally unappreciated, advice to just not do it.
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